What a wonderful world

Posted on June 29, 2012 by Orla Keefe

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Time is a strange thing. It feels like only yesterday that I set off from London town, and yet when I look back on all of the adventures I have had, the 16 countries I have visited, the people I have met, the amount of times I have watched the sun set on another day, the food I have tasted, the number of places I have layed my head, it seems like I have been away forever. As cliche as it sounds, I have had ‘the time of my life’, and the memories I have made will stay with me for the rest of my days. Across Africa, India, and the far out corners of South East Asia, I have left traces of my heart.

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The end of a 38K walk to Livingstonia, Malawi

Travelling to places whose riches are differently dispersed than that of my own has made me feel unbelievably lucky about where I was born, and the loving people that I have had surrounding me throughout every year of my life. Poverty is the common human condition. Across the globe, people struggle from one day next to next. I am blessed to have grown up in a nation where freedom and stability are almost taken for granted. I have crossed nations where pain and sadness continues to drown their eyes from their unforgettable and unfortunate past. These people deal with sorrows which are difficult to comprehend, and at times even inconceivable for us. But despite their sorrows, countries such as Cambodia, Vietnam & Malawi manage to hold a very unique and powerful attitude. They publicly show positivity, high spirits and satisfaction. I have begun to realise more than ever from this trip that all we really have is the here and now. The past and future live only in our minds. We make our own destiny, and our perspective and attitude towards life will either make us happy or unhappy. Our society are the masters of whining. Whether it be high petrol prices, late trains or the on going bad weather, there’s always something to moan about. However, the more you travel, and the more you learn, you realise that we have a life more priviledged than most. I hope that long after this trip is just  a memory, I will continue to remember all that I have learnt, and remember just how fortunate we really are. Life is a gift, and we are lucky to be here.

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 Chilling with Cheetahs in Namibia

Despite the poverty stricken places I have visited, the differences of race, religion or culture with the people I have met, something that has struck a chord with me is that all of us share a common bond as members of one human race. We are all striving for a future filled with joy, love and happiness. We can create bonds and share moments of laughter with anyone round the world, whether it be with a tribe in Tanzania, street children in India, or local market sellers in Indonesia. It is the people that I have met that have affected my journey the most. I was able to stand in some of the most beautiful places on our planet, experience world wonders like Victoria Falls and Angkor Wat, and watch more sunsets than I can count on my hands, but meeting and talking to people from all different walks of life, whether they be a fellow traveller or a local person in a place I have visited has been what has made this trip all worthwhile. This experience would not have been the same if it wasn’t for these people who stumbled in to my journey. I have learnt so much from the people I have met, and I know that some of them will be friends I will have for life. I will never forget the people who I have been lucky enough to spend time with, and the lessons I have learnt from them will linger on forever in my memory.

 An unforgettable experience – Meeting the Masai, Tanzania

The one person who has been there throughout this entire experience, morning, noon & night, is my travelling girl Emily. I could not have done this trip without her, and I feel blessed to have such a true friend who I could share this experience with. There is not many people you could spend this amount of time with and not get tired of one another. We will forever look back at the photos and the memories with nostalgia, but also happiness that it even happened at all. We were so lucky to have met each other, and both shared a similar dream of travelling to the places we have now visited.

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The Elephant Festival, Jaipur

It might seem that this journey of enjoying life to its fullest is merely a holiday, but it has been emotional, tough and stressful. Continually worrying about our belongings, where we are going to sleep from one day to the next, or how to get from one place to the other has been tough. From camping for six weeks in Africa, staying in bug-ridden beds and jumping in freezing cold showers, travelling hasn’t been a leisurely experience. The backpacking lifestyle is no catwalk, and I am sure we will look back at some photographs and cringe at the sight of our unkept selves. But this is what was expected. We wanted an adventure around the world, and we had exactly that.

ImageLighting a candle for loved ones at home on the River Ganges, Varanasi

They say that the grass is always greener on the other side, but more vividly than ever, I can see the forty shades of green that grow deep in the heart of my own garden. Across all of the countries that I have walked, family is the key to a richer life in love and happiness, and it is the greatest source of joy. Despite feeling sad about my journey coming to an end, I will never feel sad about returning to the people who care about me most. I have never been so excited to spend time with my family, and throughout this trip, I have never loved them more. I would not have been able to do this without their continual love and support for me, and the constant flow of emails back and forth. Despite being miles apart, we always remained close. With the wedding of my brother Liam and his beautiful fiance Michelle coming up in 2013, there are so many happy times to look forward to.

Irish dancing round the world – Namib desert, Namibia

As Rudyard Kipling once wrote, ‘The world is yours and everything that’s in it…’ This trip has given me an incredible thirst to explore more of our beautiful world. The travelling bug has truly grown within me! We are so lucky to live in a time where travel is possible, and I intend to grasp this luck with both hands. The world is ours to explore, and I know that this trip is just the beginning of a life long love affair with all the wondrous places there is to see on our planet.

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I feel that there is nothing more apt than finishing this post with what I wrote on my first blog post six months ago. This sums up for me the reason why I wanted to travel, and will continue to be the reason I venture to new and untouched places in our beautiful world.

We travel to open our hearts and eyes and learn more about the world than our newspapers will accommodate. We travel to bring what little we can, in our ignorance and knowledge, to those parts of the globe whose riches are differently dispersed. And we travel, in essence, to become young fools again, to slow time down & get taken in, and fall in love once more. And, if travel is like love, it is, in the end, mostly because it’s a heightened state of awareness, in which we are mindful, receptive, undimmed by familiarity and ready to be transformed. That is why, the best trips, like the best love affairs, never really end.

O x

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Indonesia: The paradise island of Gili Trawangan

Posted on June 27, 2012 by Orla Keefe
Arriving in Bali, it was clear to see the effects that mass tourism has had on this tropical island of Indonesia.  A surfer’s paradise, we stayed two nights in Kuta at a three bunk bed high hostel (Of course I was lucky enough to be staying on the top bunk! It was like a trek up to bed each night!) a few miles outside of the madness before heading to the exotic cluster of three tiny resort islands of Gili nestled between the famed islands of Bali and Lombok.
 

Imagine paradise. Crystal transparent turquoise waters, breathtaking underwater coral, soft white sand, and the glorious sun shining all day. This is reality on the three Gili islands; Gili Meno, Gili Air, and Gili Trawangan. We chose to stay on the bigger island of the three, Gili Trawangan. I can imagine that life here is how Bali used to be some decades ago before it became riddled with tourism. Day after day, travellers tired of the over crowded beaches in Bali make the two hour crossing over to Gili Trawangan to relax in seclusion. The best and most developed of the three isles, its stunning beaches, the bustling nightlife, breathtaking landscape and friendly islanders make this place truly admirable. You are also blessed with breathing in clean fresh air as cars and motorbikes are forbidden here. Travelling around the small island is by foot, bicycle or one of the many horse and cart carriages that litter the small pathways. We decided to spend a week here to save on travel costs and relax in this tropical paradise.

Who wouldn’t want to spend more than a week in a place like this?

 
 
 
Sunset over Gili T
 
We ended up staying at a bungalow just off the main street recommended to us by two canadians that we met in Kuala Lumpur. It ended up being the making of our time on Gili Trawangan. The guys running the bungalows were locals from Lombok making their living on the tourist hotspot of Gili. Every morning we were met with coffee and tomato omelettes from new friend and worker at the bungalow, Suharno. Venturing down to the beautiful breezy beach, we relaxed in the sunshine, knowing how lucky we were to be in such a stunning place. It wouldn’t be long  till we would be returning home, dreaming of our days on paradise islands like Gili Trawangan. A few nights on the island we ventured down to the local night market, where we feasted on fresh fish caught that day. 
 
 
 
Our days were spent with Suharno, Babat, Owen, & Samudra, learning about their culture, and enjoying each others company. Walking back to the bungalow after being at the beach, we were always greeted with such warmth. There was so much laughter and smiles. We were able to help them with their english, and in turn they taught us some local indonesian phrases and also the language of their own village, Sasa. Despite the obvious language barrier between ourselves, we were able to build a common bond with each of them.
 
Throughout my trip this is something that I have realised and noticed in all of the people we have met; that despite where you are from or what you believe in, we are all the same. All of us are striving for happiness, and are in search of something, whether that is satisfaction from a job or love from a significant other. All of them from the same village in Lombok, the unity and affection they show for one another was truly heart warming. Throughout Africa and Asia, it seems that it isn’t just your family that are of most importance, but the people that you share your life with around you, and who live close by. Your local village becomes a huge part of your life, almost like a large extended family. These boys treated each other as if they were brothers, and would continually look out for one another everyday. In the western world we lead such independent lives, and only truly care and look out for a handful of people; your immediate family and the few friends who you know you can truly rely on. This is something that I have grown to love about asian culture and traditions. Seemingly, it seems that such a bond and unity with your local village or town correlates with developing countries, and those that have lower incomes. They may not be rich on paper, but these people are rich in love and happiness. The amount of times they laughed and smiled each day was overwhelming. Time and the pace of life is slower here. Their focus is not on how much money can I earn, but focused around the people they care about. Sharing is a fundamental part of their culture. For example, on the nights we would venture down to the beach to dance under the moonlight, we drank together outside our bungalow, sharing from the same glass that we passed around the group.
 
 Samudra, Owen & Suharno
 
Babat on our bike ride around the island
 
I found their traditions and habits so infectious and admirable. Even though we only spent a week with them, I truly felt we left the island with new friends. And to think that we might not have had the chance of meeting them if we hadn’t been recommended to stay there from the canadian boys we met in Kuala Lumpur. Some things are meant to be! We left them with a promise of hopefully seeing each other again one day in the future.
 
We travelled back to Bali for a few nights in Ubud before making our final flight over to Thailand.
 
London’s Calling…
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Singapore: An adults playground

Posted on June 16, 2012 by Orla Keefe

Singapore is a perfectionists dream. From the clean polished streets, to the high rise complex apartments with cutting edge design, this place oozes cool.

A cosmopolitan haven, Singapore is a mix of Chinese, Malay, Indian and expat citizens from across the globe. Everything about this small country screams wealth and prosperity. For a traveller on a tight budget, and Singapore ranking one of the most expensive cities in the world, we had only planned to stay for just one day. Luckily for us, Sophia’s friend from her work offered for us to stay at his plush apartment on the 41st floor of The Icon complex; a newly built apartment block, with mall, gym and pool just a few floors down.

For four days we relaxed in Singapore as if we were expats ourselves! The gleaming shopping complexes, array of first class cuisine, great transport links, and the general cleanliness and delight of looking up at the sparkling skyline of Singapore make it clear to see why people migrate over here.

Just one of Singapore’s pristine shopping malls

Marina Bay Sands Hotel

On Saturday night we headed up to the exclusive Marina Bay Sands hotel for just one cocktail to take in the sights of Singapore from the 52nd level. You can’t help by marvel at the skyscrapers that litter the sky in this prosperous district. Sipping slowly on raspberry prosecco (we only had enough for just one drink!) we took in the bright lights of Singapore beneath us.

We spent our days relaxing in our complex, walking the wisteria lane like streets of the city, and window shopping at malls that were way beyond our budget! Oh to dream…

On the Sunday afternoon we headed to Raffles Hotel for afternoon tea. First opened in 1887 and named after Mr Raffle himself who founded Singapore, the colonial style building is one of the most famous hotels in the world. The cream washed walls and beams reminded me of 1940s architecture in Southern USA.

One of the things we were most exciting about seeing in Singapore was the world famous Singapore Zoo! One of the world’s best and first open concept zoos. The animals are kept in spacious, landscaped enclosures separated from the visitors by moats. These moats are sneakily hidden by plants or rocks so you really feel like nothing is separating you from the animals. Even the bathrooms were open planned, so it felt like you were in a waterfall in a rainforest! The array of animals to see was unbelievable, and it was definitely the best zoo I have ever visited.  It was the first time I had seen a white tiger, & it did not disappoint. As always, my favourite thing to see were the primates!

The beautiful surroundings of Singapore Zoo

Having now travelled to Africa and seen many of these animals in the wild, I feel going to any zoo now for me, will never compare! Walking around the zoo I drifted back to my time in Africa, and more than ever I wished so much to be back amongst nature. Maybe because Africa seems quite some while ago now, and I am looking back at this time through rose tinted glasses, but I think and dream of returning to Africa everyday! I would love to travel back and see more of Africa, and travel to new places like Mozambique and Madagascar.

Myself and the girls enjoyed Singapore, but we spoke of how after a while we can imagine that living here can become quite mundane. Everything is a little too perfect; like a newly built, sharp cut architecture model. Sophia’s friend who lived here commented that life here can become quite monotonous, and the government have created a nation who have less freedom than other citizens of developed countries. What does it mean to be a Singaporean? It seems that the country is suffering from a lack of national identity. As a country that surged with people moving here to create new dreams, the country is filled with people from different cultural backgrounds from across the globe. A national identity is created by memories that are built over many many years that spur patriotism. Singapore has little history, and with freedom for citizens being minimal, it is difficult for the nation to create binding ties with a government that forces rules and regulations amongst their people. In an increasing ‘borderless world’, it will be interesting to see what happens to Singapore as a nation, and whether the expats that have migrated over here for work will make this their permanent home, or if they will migrate back to the land they once knew to live indefinitely. With the rise in globalisation, and many people from developed countries moving to new lands to build new dreams, it may be that Singapore is an example of how the western world will be in decades to come.

It was so lovely to have time away from hostel life, and chill in our own space at the apartment. Singapore was a delight, but it is definitely somewhere I would love to return to with a little bit more cash! With our backpacks back on, we journeyed on the cleanest metro system known to man, to the airport, for our three hour flight to Indonesia. The waves were calling us! We planned to journey to the paradise island of Gili Trawangan the following day.

Surf, sea and sand here we come…:)

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Kuala Lumpur: The Reggae Mansion Experience

Posted on June 13, 2012 by Orla Keefe

If there was a benchmark for the perfect hostel, The Reggae Mansion should be the model. We arrived in Kuala Lumpur to the chic hostel of Reggae Mansion – arguably the best hostel we have stayed at throughout South East Asia. This is the future of hostel life for travellers!

Crisp white modern furnishings, hot showers, your own little cubby hole to sleep in inclosed with plug sockets and lamps, and ice cold air con when walking in to the 12 bedroom dorm; it was a traveller’s dream. From six months of staying in some questionable hostels and guest houses, you can understand why this was such a delight! With a rooftop club, restaurant and cinema found inside this 3-storey building, you could easily not venture out in to the bustling streets of nearby China Town all day!

Our Little cubby holes!

With just three days in the city, myself, Emily & Sophia were excited to stroll around, and marvel at KL’s own twin towers ‘The Petronas Towers’. On our second night we ventured out to The Sky bar with new friends from the mansion for just one cocktail overlooking the towers. It’s strange how you can stand in awe at a beautiful sunset, a crashing waterfall, or a never-ending ocean before you, & feel a similar emotion when looking up at a man made building such as the towers. They stood proudly before us, shining so bright against the dark sky. That night the sky was tickled with pink; It made for quite an amazing picture!

That night we danced the night away with our fellow mansion dwellers at the Reggae bar, and popped in for some sweet indian roti’s at a local street vendor on our way home. Malaysia’s food variety is just incredible! If you ever had any craving, I am sure you would find it on the streets of KL. We wandered back to the mansion after a great night with new friends  We have met so many incredible people on our trip, and it is this that brings me the most joy; meeting new people & sharing moments with them that will forever remind me of that place where we shared those memories. Nothing excites me more than turning up in a new place, eager to meet new people and explore our new surroundings. This is something I am going to miss so much about travelling; the spontaneity and the excitement of meeting new people from across the globe. Two Canadians told us about the paradise island of Gili Trawangan, off the coast of Lombok in Indonesia. Having stayed there for 10 days already at The Banana Leaf bungalow, they were heading back to Gili T for a further 10 days as they loved it so much! We exchanged Facebook details and planned to see them again when we travelled down to Indonesia in a weeks time.

Our last day in KL was spent at the Batu Caves, just north of the city. As it was a hindu worship place, we were transported back to our time in India. We travelled there in the ladies only carriage, obviously something that the government felt necessary due to the strong muslim & hindu population in KL. It seemed quite barbaric for us. I can’t imagine this being very well obeyed on the underground!

Malaysia was unexpectedly great. From the culinary paradise of Penang, the breathtaking rolling hills of The Cameron Highlands, and the shining bright sky of KL, Malaysia has been a travellers dream. Nothing was too difficult. Transport links were great, and the variety of food has been some of the best that we have had on our 6 month journey. Hopefully on another trip in my life, I will venture to the region of Malaysian Borneo. You can’t do it all can you!

I felt sad to be leaving the comfort of the Reggae Mansion, but leaving for the beautiful clean city of Singapore made it that little bit easier.

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The Cameron Highlands

Posted on May 30, 2012 by Orla Keefe

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I am so glad we had the chance to visit the beauty that is The Cameron Highlands. We spent the day trekking through jungle-clad forests, dancing with butterflies and looking over in awe at the rolling green hills before us. For a place that was not originally on our trail, we felt so lucky to have had the chance to see this wondrous place.

With new friends from Canada that were on our tour, we then journeyed to the Strawberry fields just outside the town of Tanah Rata. We gorged on strawberries covered in cream, & drank fresh tea overlooking the tea plantations. The Canadian girls had made plans to be in Singapore for around the same time that we would, so we left them with a promise of another meeting in a weeks time. All the Canadians that we have been lucky enough to meet along our journey have been so genuine and friendly. Canada is definitely on the list of places I want to visit in my lifetime. 

There are just so many beautiful places on our planet, and to think that we could have missed seeing this place! The fresh crisp air was a welcome change from the humid cities that we have become so accustomed to. It was the first time since Africa that we had worn jumpers!

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We left The Cameron Highlands late afternoon on a bus bound for the capital of Kuala Lumpur. With advice from a girl we met in Penang, we had booked in to stay at the ultra chic hostel of Reggae Mansion. We were excited to explore the home of the Petronas Towers before making our descent on Singapore. Image

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Malaysia: Penang – A Culinary Paradise

Posted on May 27, 2012 by Orla Keefe

Our journey in to Malaysia was memorable to say the least. Squashed in the back of a mini bus, wedged between rucksacks and sitting next to boxes of fish, we journeyed to the border of Malaysia. To make the drive that little bit more dramatic, the driver was jumping down the highway at the speed of lightening. Myself and Sophia
sat at the back of the bus saying our Hail Mary’s!

Penang is the food capital of Malaysia, and for some, the food capital of South East Asia. With the strong Indian and Chinese population, you can pretty much have any cuisine you wish. Staying in the Unesco world heritage town of Georgetown, we spent our days driving around the island with new friend Soso, a student living in Penang who we met at our hostel playing pool. It felt strange to be walking around the district of Little India. Myself and Emily were transported back to our time in India; the music, smells and colourful saris gracing our senses.

We were staying next to the famous Red Garden Food Market. For our four days in Penang, we made our way around the different stalls each night trying the different cuisines that were on offer. From Indian food, Chinese food, Japanese food to traditional Malay food, we tantalised every taste bud! The food is definitely the main draw to the island. People from the capital of Kuala lumpur, and even as far as Singapore make the drive up to the island of Penang for a weekend of food indulgence. It’s easy to understand why! The food was some of the best that we have had on our 6 month journey.

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You could get 10 pieces of chicken satay for 8 ringitt (about £1.50!)

Our first five days in Malaysia were unexpectedly great, having had no anticipation for what it would be like here. Malaysia is a dynamic mix of east meets west. The nations tourism tagline is ‘Truly Asia’, and true to its slogan, it is home to a unique potpourri of Asian cultures — Malay, Chinese and Indian. It is a bustling melting pot of cultures and religion. Multiculturalism has made Malaysia a gastronomical paradise! The diversity in the people from all walks of life are what make Malaysia unique and exciting. It’s easy to travel around, and still relatively cheap for us with £1 giving us 5 ringgit. It’s sad to think that many people just travel over to South East Asia to go to Thailand, and miss great places like Malaysia just a few hours away. With the great push towards building their tourism industry, it seems that the next decade will see an increase of visitors to this diverse country.

It was great to have Soso show us around the city, and take us to the beaches and hotspots of Penang. We always manage to find someone to drive us around and show us the sights!

A girl in our dorm at the hostel had just come back from the Cameron Highlands; two hours south of the island of Penang. We decided to make our way down there to explore the famous rolling green hills of the tea plantations for a night, before heading to the capital of KL. With the highlands also being so high up in the mountains, temperatures never reach higher than 21 degrees, and on average hover around 15 degrees each day. We were excited to escape the humidity, and to breathe in the fresh smell of cut grass and crisp clean fresh air.

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Thailand: Blissful times Island hopping

Posted on May 23, 2012 by Orla Keefe
With the arrival of Sophia and Emily’s friend Holly and our mutual friend from our days at Uni Drew, we really felt like we were moving in to the final chapter of our six month journey. We met the girls at Bangkok Bus terminal and then travelled on a night bus down to the island of Koh Phangan – the home of the infamous Full Moon Party! We were so excited to finally let our hair down, swim in the ocean and catch some rays!

The Full Moon party did not disappoint. Watching the sun rise and raving until midday! It was spectacular and one of the best nights out of my life. The music, atmosphere and people were electric. Fire shows and the different stages made the night so dynamic. It felt so good to be there with all of our friends, and also to meet up with other friends from our university who were out in Thailand at the same time. It felt like a University of Kent reunion! A year and a half on from our graduation, and here we all were, partying in Thailand, still as close as we once were during our days of partying at The Venue :)

Koh Phangan was surprisingly beautiful, having heard negative comments about the island from others who had been. Staying at Starlight resort on the North of the island, we spent the rest of our days chilling by the pool, eating great Thai food, and watching amazing fire shows at night by local Thai boys at a bar on the beach. Looking back now, I can’t help but smile to myself at how great this time was, and so lucky to have so many people fly out to be with us from home.

We hopped over to Koh Tao for another four days of relaxing, enjoying the sunshine and driving around the island on mopeds finding great places to snorkel. The diving and snorkelling here is out of this world! Each day rolled in to the next. Days were filled with laughter, chilling on the beach and enjoying great conversations with old and new friends.

Many people who come to Thailand get stuck on the islands and I can totally understand why. The nightlife and beaches are just delightful. There are endless opportunities to meet people, as everyone is a traveller! Hopping from one island to the next you are always met with a sea of backpacks! There is no doubt that this part of the trip is far less challenging and far less cultural than places we have visited thus far. But, we always knew that Thailand was going to be this way. That hasn’t stopped it being just as much fun.

The times on the islands have been some of my fondest memories. Each day just happily flowing in to the next, filled with sunshine, great food and great friends. It feels so easy to be traveling around this part of the world compared to harder places that we have travelled such as India. I know I will look back on the memories and photos with a sense of nostalgia, but always with a smile :)

Some of the greatest days.

 
What are days for? Days are where we live. They come, they wake us, They are to be happy in. Where can we live but days?  
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The Kingdom of Cambodia

Posted on May 22, 2012 by Orla Keefe

When you think of Cambodia, you immediately think of the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, a spectacular fusion of symbolism, symmetry and spirituality. It’s the image of Cambodia, and they are proud to have this as their symbol – and so they should be! The temples of Angkor are staggeringly impressive. It’s on their flag, their money and even the local brewed beer is named ‘Angkor’!

We arrived in the chaotic capital of Phnom Penh for a two night stay where we planned to visit the place known as ‘The Killing Fields’; there are around six fields across Cambodia where the genocides of the 1970s took place.

It’s not long ago that the barbarian Pol Pot regime and his murderous Khmer Rouge army administered terrible atrocities and mass killings of their own population. It was between 1975 and 1979 that Cambodia suffered one of the most devastating genocides of the twentieth century. It was with a heavy heart that we walked around the Killing Fields a few miles outside of Phnom Penh, where people were brought from their cells at S-21 to be brutally killed and dumped in pits to die. The audio guide was outstanding, giving us the chance to listen to survivors stories and the wicked tales of the Khmer Rouge. It ended by looking forward to the future, in the hopes that such an atrocious genocide would not take place again in history, however, these events have a tendency to repeat themselves years later. It was harrowing to stand where many had stood and faced death before them.

The strict Pol Pot rules robbed the population’s freedom, their happiness and their religion. Buddhism was banned, there was no more praying and to publicly show love within your family was forbidden and resulted in punishment. Educated cambodians such as teachers and doctors were hunted out to be killed; Pol Pot probably thinking that it would be easier to run a nation of the uneducated. Cambodia was a prison without walls. One lady who’s story was told at the killing fields said that death was almost seen as a relief. It’s shocking to think of all that happened during this time, and that it was even allowed to continue, and that no one stepped in. The mass genocide killed more than half of the Cambodian population. Today in Cambodia when walking around Phnom Penh & Siem Reap we were struck by the shocking ratio of young to elderly people.

It is through visiting such places like the killing fields that my mind inevitably drifts to home, and I begin to feel overcome with a deep sense of luck and appreciation at being born in a place where freedom and political stability are almost taken for granted. This entire six month journey has given me a new appreciation for the world in which I was lucky enough to be born in to, and the family that I have at home who love me unconditionally.

Cambodia is a face with two sides; a sad and depressing face of the past, struggling to catch up with starlet neighbours of Vietnam and Thailand. It is ranked one of the poorest countries in Asia. The people lead a tough existence with average annual salaries hovering around a few hundred dollars. According to the United Nations Cambodia remains poorer than Mongolia and El Salvador.

But Cambodia has a face of optimism, courage and happiness that you cannot help but admire. Tourism is full steam ahead, with the home of Angkor at its centre. This has provided great opportunity and employment for a new generation of Cambodians and has given the country a renewed sense of pride and optimism as it recovers from the dark decades of war and genocide.

Our visit to Siem Reap was a short one, breezing through to catch the sunrise and sunset at the temples of Angkor. Up at the ungodly hour of 5am, we ran into the temple just catching the sun rise above, mirrored in the glistening water before us. Walking around the many temples proved difficult, what with the sheer size of the place and the increasing sweltering heat. My favourite Temple was Angkor Tomh, which is the place where they filmed Tomb Raider!

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That evening we ventured to the outskirts of Siem Reap with our tuk tuk driver Teddy to a local food market and nearby lake. We sat with three local children on the water, eating papaya salad and jumping and running around laughing with one another. The children couldn’t be happier! For a country with a sad past, there’s hope that the younger generation of Cambodians will bring the country into a new and brighter future.

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We left Cambodia the following day bound for Bangkok, excited to be reunited with friends from home. I was so looking forward to seeing Sophia, and so glad that she was able to finally make it out to see me, although a little later than originally planned. Everything happens for a reason.

Walking across the border from Cambodia to Thailand has to be one of my lowest moments! My rucksack weighing 20kg does not help but then add that with 38 degrees of heat! We felt like we were going to pass out! Myself and Emily said whenever we have moments at home wishing desperately to be travelling again, we should think back to that moment of utter struggle!

Arriving on Koh San Road, Full Moon spirit was in the air! The islands of the South were calling us. We boarded a night bus down to the port of Surat Thani for our boat over to the party island of Koh Phangan. Rave paint and fire dancing here we come!!!!

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A Letter – The War Remnants Museum Vietnam

Posted on May 17, 2012 by Orla Keefe

This letter for me was one of the most moving pieces from the War remnants museum; A 23 year old agent orange victim writing to President Obama

Dear President Barack Obama!

My name is Trần Thị Hoan, 23, born in Đức Linh District, Bình Thuận Province, Việt Nam. I am a second generation victim of Agent Orange, one among the plaintiffs, representing millions of Agent Orange victims, in a lawsuit against 37 U.S. chemical manufacturers in the U.S. Federal Court, two richest of which are Dow and Monsanto.

They manufactured deadly defoliants sprayed in the Vietnam wars containing dioxin—it has not only killed living people during the war, but gradually kills their children generations, like me, and goes on to kill the next ones.
It damages my country and other nations beyond imagination.

I have read your letter to your beloved daughters, especially this excerpt: “These are the things I want for you—to grow up in a world with no limits on your dreams and no achievements beyond your reach, and to grow into compassionate, committed women who will help build that world. And I want every child to have the same chances to learn and dream and grow and thrive that you girls have. That’s why I’ve taken our family on this great adventure.”

I was deeply moved by the love you have for your daughters and the dreams you have for children of other countries, and I dream that certainly you meant also for Vietnam. I dream that when you were on the campaign trail, and when you were writing those lines, you had some ideas about Agent Orange and its devastating effects on human and environment. I dream when you wrote “And I want every child to have the same chances to learn and dream and grow and thrive that you girls have” you were actually thinking about innocent children slowly killed by dioxin, and their sufferings, their education in a very poor country like Vietnam will be the same as your daughters in the U.S. I dream you had in mind what to do to help every child to have the same chances to learn and to dream and grow and thrive like your daughters’.

May I say something about myself: when I was in junior high school, I studied hard to become a doctor to help people in my home town because they were so poor. But this dream was taken from me. I was suggested in college not to follow medicine because I was born with no legs and no left hand. My parents were consumed with grief when I was born and when I started school. I was suggested not to dream about raising a family for fear that my children would be born deformed like me, and the poison might even take their lives. You may have guessed from my personal story, one among three million victim stories, what happen to other parents victims of Agent Orange.

You are a father of two beautiful daughters, and you know how parents love their children. As you might have known, the U.S. Vietnam veterans, sick from Agent Orange, have gotten remediation for their illnesses, but their children have not. How do their children live a decent life like your daughters?

In the case of my poor country, veterans of the U.S. war and their children and grandchildren have not received any justice from the U.S. courts: they refused to hear our case against the U.S. chemical companies without explanations. This denial of justice may have rendered void your dream for every child to have the same chances to learn and dream and grow and thrive. When I toured the U.S. cities last October, I found the American people deeply concerned about the problems of Agent Orange, including lawyers. I was totally disappointed with the U.S. Supreme Court running away from this question of justice.

I understand that you are very busy with the urgent matters that face your country, I hope that you would consider the poison from Agent Orange and the lives of its victims with as much a matter of urgency because what they mean to the future of humanity. I hope that you, a symbol of hope not only for the United States, but also for the world, a father who love his children dearly, and a man of humanity, spare a little time to resolve this forgotten problem.

Thank you! Trần Thị Hoan

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Hoh Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Posted on May 17, 2012 by Orla Keefe

Our journey down to the southern city of Saigon was tinged with sadness. With the departure of James becoming imminent, and our visas in Vietnam moving closer to their expiry, we felt sad to be leaving a place that we had barely even touched. Vietnam is the first country that I have visited that I feel I have not done it justice. Missing cities such as Hoi An and Nha Trang, I know that this will be a place that I will revisit to finish what I left off. As Emily was feeling sad after waving goodbye to James, a feeling I know all to well, we spent the day chilling and resting.

Staying at the My My Guesthouse in the backpackers ghetto, we woke up early the next day to explore and went to the nearby ABC Bakery for our regular morning drink of Vietnamese coffee (slowly becoming an addiction!)

The War Remnants Museum in the heart of the city showcases all of the photographs caught during the Vietnam war, from the beginning right up to the bitter end.

Photographs are the image of history. Long after those who took those photographs are gone, long after those who knew them well and remember their experiences are gone, the images they captured will remain to show generations to come the face of the war in IndoChina. The images were harrowing. We walked through the gallery in shock and bewilderment at the fatalities that took place during the 8 years of the Vietnam war.

There are many shocking and saddening events that have taken place in my lifetime; 9/11 and the 2001 Tsunami to name but two. Although natural disasters like the Tsunami are deeply unfair and tragic, there is nothing more shocking than mans destructive power over man. The war in Vietnam is a terrible example of what we has humans can do to people of our own.

The museum made me realise that although the soldiers themselves are continuously brave, and proudly stood and fought for their own country, the photographers also deserve the utmost respect for their dedication and power to keep the memory of the war alive through their photography.

The war began in an era of still photography and ended with colour film and videotape beaming through television screens across the globe. We now live in an era where the film of war is continuously projected on to our news channels everyday.

All the photo journalists of this horrific war prevailed in the end. In a war in which so many people died for illusions, foolish causes and mad dreams, these men and women of the camera conquered death through their immortal camera.

Having not researched or learnt much about the Vietnam war, it was a great chance for me to learn more about what happened during that time.
Time has now moved swiftly on however, so many people are still affected by what struck in the latter part of the last century. You can see it in the faces of the people you pass in the street, many being affected by agent orange, or many show an expression of deep rooted sadness of their past. It’s shocking to know that many people have been indirectly exposed to agent orange through the Breast milk from their exposed mothers.

Our hostel was a delight to come home to each night, having met some great people from Canada that we will hopefully stay in contact with. We always laugh about the ultimate ‘Travell-off’ that will no doubt take place when you meet a fellow traveller in the hostel for the first time; ‘So, where have you been, where are going…’. There are few ultimate travellers out there as many people travelling are coming or going to Australia and then the well travelled route of South East Asia. It’s always great throwing the wildcard of travelling to Africa into the mix!

We rested one more night in the southern city before heading over the border into Cambodia. Another stamp in the passport!

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